NCP10/12/13 Toyota Echo Track Setup Guide

NCP10/12/13 Toyota Echo Track Setup Guide

Something I get asked about a lot is what I consider the formula to make an Echo (or a Yaris, for the non-Australian folk) go fast on the track. Full disclaimer - I am not a mechanical engineer, and nor will I pretend to be a professional motorsport driver. That said, I did spend a lot of time on track in my beloved Kevin the Echo, and I think ultimately achieved some respectable lap times. If this information helps you do the same, great!

It's worth bearing in mind that I was working within the old Nugget Nationals rules - both in terms of budget ($3k purchase, $5k total spend) and modification rules (e.g. one point of adjustment per corner). You could absolutely do more (and hopefully go faster) - but this proves you don't need much. Before I get into it though:

The #1 thing to spend money on to go faster is seat time. Period.

There is no point spending 20k on mods if you've only done 1 track day in your life. You're better off keeping it simple, reliable, and using your money on attending as many track days as you can. This might seem obvious, but resist going overboard!

For reference, Kevin is an NCP13 Toyota Echo Sportivo 1.5L (Phase 2). Anyway, on to the setup:

Suspension / Handling:

The basic formula is:

  • Coilovers (no MaxSpeedingRods, please)
  • Rear anti-roll bar (swaybar)
  • Make sure your bushes are all in good shape

What I ran was:

  • BC BR Type RA coilovers (custom spec - 9kg front, 7kg rear)
  • Whiteline rear anti-roll bar
  • Replaced all bushes with poly (not required.. many believe rubber is better)
  • -3.5 deg front camber, rear corrected with washers to be even toe and camber both sides. You'll get -2.5 out of the tops alone on the front, I slotted the bolt holes for the extra -1 deg once I got better tyres
  • No front camber bolts because they were forever adjusting themselves over ripple strips

Car suspension components including shock absorbers and springs on a gray surface

Close-up of a car's undercarriage with suspension components.

Brakes:

The basic formula is:

  • Proper brake pads (Winmax W3 well established as the best readily available option)
  • Stock AU-spec 235mm discs - plain, non slotted is fine - get new ones to go with your new pads
  • Braided brake lines
  • Better brake fluid

What I ran was:

  • Winmax W3 pads
  • ZZW30 MRS front calipers and 255mm slotted discs (same as overseas 1.5L Yaris - noting that this is well established as not required. Stock is fine, and much cheaper to replace discs!)
  • HEL Braided brake lines (if you're ordering, bear in mind it's the foreign catalogue - order the base 1.0L model for rear drums!)
  • Penrite 10-tenths brake fluid

Close-up of a car's brake system with brake disc and caliper on a concrete floor.

Wheels / Tyres:

The basic formula is:

  • 15" x 7" +35 (or similar) wheels
  • Start out with a more durable 200TW semi-slick like the Hankook RS4 in 195/50R15
  • Once you've got more seat time under your belt and the car well sorted, then look to run a stickier tyre such as the Nankang CRS or the Yokohama Advan A052.

What I ran was:

  • 15"x7" +35 Rota Slipstream (dont @ me about Rota.. I know!)
  • Hankook RS4 195/50R15 front/rear (initially)
  • Nankang CRS 205/50R15 front, 195/50R15 rear (final setup)

White car on a track with tires in the background

Engine / Mechanical:

The basic formula is:

  • Do nothing, everything below doesn't do much beyond make noise. Service regularly.

What I ran was:

  • Budget cold air intake (note - causes issue on Phase 1 models)
  • Homemade cat-back exhaust (stock was rusting to pieces)
  • Exedy HD clutch

Car engine compartment with 'Toyota' logo on a white car

Safety:

There is a lot to be said for being well strapped in, and feeling safe in the case of an incident to feel safe pushing it. Personally, this made a huge difference for me and I won't track without it.

The bare minimum is:

  • A properly mounted fire extinguisher

What I ran was:

  • 4 point roll cage (custom - there's nothing off the shelf)
  • 6 point HANS compatible Autotechnica harness
  • HANS device
  • Atech racing seats

Car interior with a roll cage and racing seat, showing the structural components.

Racing seat with red and yellow harnesses inside a car.

The end result.

So, what did all this translate to in PBs?

Winton: 1:44.7 RS4 / 1:42.7 CRS

Broadford: 1:10.6 RS4 / 1:10.5 CRS (No CRS video, sorry!)

There is a 1:41 in the CRS at Winton, and a 1:09 at Broadford. Consider these the times to aim for, but don't be disappointed if it takes time to get anywhere near that, and expect some adventures along the way!

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out via the Contact page. Good luck and see you at the track!